羽裏　HAURA　Introduced here are linings of haori (kimono coat) that were made from the late 1800s through early 1900s, including the time when stylish dressing up became a trend in 1910s-20s.

HAURA　In modern Japan, the designs of haura (kimono coat lining) were an important medium that reflected people's curiosity and dreams towards a new age. Wearing a fashionable haura and juban (kimono underwear) that cannot be seen from outside shows a stylish traditional Japanese sense of beauty. A variety of those modern designs also reveal not only things that people were interested in but also social conditions such as the trend of technological innovation, arrival of consumer society and repeated wars.

Habutae-ji Saika-monyou Kata-Yuzen-zome-gire

Local specialties of Kyoto, shishigatani-kabocha (pumpkins), kamo-nasu (eggplants), ooe-gaki (persimmons) and tamba-matsutake (mushrooms) are featured. Fruits and Western vegetables such as Japanese pears, green peppers, lily bulbs, Japanese ginger and grapes are also printed, portraying the harvests of Kyoto. By using stencils on both dyeing and shading, depth and thickness are added to the colours of the vegetables, which successfully bring out a sense of perspective. This is a piece that shows a perfect harmony of the Yuzen technique of shading and printing.

Habutae-ji Gunkei-monyou Kata-Yuzen-zome-gire

The design of this stencilled Yuzen dyeing is inspired by Jakuchu Ito's three paintings; "Ajisai Soukeizu" (hydrangeas and two fouls), "Fuyou Soukeizu" (rose mallows and two fouls) and "Gunkeizu" (a flock of fouls). There are among thirty works of his :"Doushokusaie" (pictures of animals and plants) series that are in possession of the Imperial Household Agency. These three paintings are copied almost exactly like the originals and put together in one piece of Yuzen design. Using extremely specialized techniques of stencil yuzen dyeing, the pieces stay true to the original by imitating Jakuchu’s brush strokes. Depth is produced by the shading technique of using more than one stencil. Shadows are done by another shading technique of brushing out the colours. The splendid harmony of these two techniques enables this dyeing art to look like a real painting. Jakuchu's daring painting style of using both dynamic and static brush touches is similar to the stenciled Yuzen dyeing techniques of shading.

Sample Books Part of the Yuzen-dyeing sample books that OKAJIMA has produced over generations.

Haura

Haura

Japanese Stylishness and Dandyism　Haura OKAJIMA Collection

Haori (kimono coat) became very popular in the late 1800s through early 1900s. It was haura, a kimono coat lining, that people in those days paid great attention to as if competing with one another. About 500 haura that were produced by OKAJIMA at that time were kept in dyeing sample books as the OKAJIMA collection. These designs were full of variety; classic patterns with motifs of landscapes, animals, plants and flowers as well as modern designs influenced by Western cultures, and also those reflecting war time. Paying attention not only to appearance but to inner fashion indicates the stylish fashion-conscious mind and high sense of beauty that Japanese people have. Over 200 items in the OKAJIMA collection are introduced in this book. You will appreciate the high-level of craftsmanship and creativity of the artisans in those days.

Publisher: Hachette Fujingaho
First published: June 1st, 2006
Price: 3,800 yen (plus tax)

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